Monday, 30 September 2019

business - I keep getting asked to do wedding photography - what is a fair price to ask?


This may sound like a silly post...but, I need some "outside" opinion from people who know what they are doing.


I took up amateur photography as a hobby a couple of years ago...most of it being portrait photography of my children. As I have posted my pictures on facebook, a plethora of people have loved my "work" and have been contacting me about my "photography" business. I have been very up-front and honest with every one of them about only being an amateur, and never professionally trained. That being said, people still hound me to take their pictures. I am comfortable with my ability to take portrait style pictures....and I have even started charging $60 for a two hour shoot with the rights to the cd of prints. I do not do my own printing.


Now, I have done three weddings for family members just over this last summer....and only as a wedding gift to them (in other words, I have not charged.) But now, I am having others, who are not family members, wanting to "hire" me for their weddings. Again....I have tried to tell them I don't do professional photography, only to be met with all of them still wanting to hire me.


My question is...what is a fair price to ask of these people? They obviously still want me to work for them, knowing that I have no credentials.....but I have no idea how or what to charge for. Can anyone give me some ideas?




Sunday, 29 September 2019

image quality - What causes these streaked rays from light sources?


I recently bought an LG G4, whose camera can shoot in an auto and both manual mode (I can manually set the iso, aperture). I shoot 100% of the time in auto.


It takes better than average photos at night but when in Seville one night the photos it took were a disaster. Please see this example:


enter image description here



I find the background lighting was captured very well, but the light sources totally screwed up the photo.


Why is this happening? The lens was clean. What can I do to improve the quality of the future photos in this situation?


Attached 2 other photos taken before and after this problematic one (couple of hours distance). They seem fairly in the same conditions (direct light) yet the photos are decent.


enter image description here enter image description here



Answer



In my opinion that "flare" is caused by a dirty lens. I'm guessing you attempted to clean it, by using a wipe, but failed to properly clean it, which is why the flare has directionality.


Try using a micro fibre cloth. I recently bought some that are designed for use in the kitchen, and it set me back by only a single dollar.


I use these for cleaning my belongings all the time, which for example include a cell phone, glasses, and handheld electronic devices. It could also just be the result of condensation.


composition - What is the 'Golden Ratio' and why is it better than the 'Rule of Thirds?'


Somebody recently told me that I will be able to compose more pleasing pictures if I use the Golden Ratio instead of the Rule of Thirds, and that the Rule of Thirds was an inferior way to compose photographs. What is the Golden Ratio, how can I apply it to my photography, and why is it better than the Rule of Thirds?




Answer



There are several good and very thorough technical answers, so I'll try to provide some practical usage of these two guidelines. Neither rule is "better" or "worse" than the other...both are simply general guidelines of composition. A simpler way to compare the two is as so:



The Rule of Thirds is a grid division into even thirds (33/33/33).
The Golden Ratio is approximately a 62/38 division.
The Golden Ratio leads to the intersection of important diagonals.



When composing a scene, there is nothing that says you can't apply both rules. Dividing a scene into 9 cells on a 3x3 grid is easy and quick, and many camera viewfinders/LCD's already present us with such a grid that we can work with.


The Golden Ratio is a little harder to use, however when you use it to align your primary subjects (such as a facial portrait), it can lead to the most pleasing compositions. To borrow from @cabby's fibonacci spiral image, you can also view it as so:


enter image description here



Note the point of convergence of the red and green lines. That particular point is the key point when using the Golden Ratio in photography. The simple rule here is to start from one side of the image, and visualize a square starting from that edge. Bisect that square along a diagonal. Bisect the entire image from the opposing corners, and place the key element of your key subject at the intersection of those bisecting lines. In the case of a portrait (where this rule is commonly used), you would want to place the eyes right around the point of intersection. You can also use this rule to photograph still subjects. It should be noted that the Golden Ratio is infinitely divisible (as you can see in the spiral image above), so you could identify multiple points of intersection for sub areas of a photograph, and place key still subjects at those points. You also have the option of following the spiral, and placing key subjects at the intersection of any two lines and part of the spiral curve.


Saturday, 28 September 2019

How does a Micro 4/3 thirds system perform for Landscape Photography?


I am doing lots of landscape and outdoor photography and one of the biggest drawbacks is that I have to carry heavy dslr gear together with an already heavy backpack. So I was thinking about a paradigm shift and going down to a smaller system.


I guess that losing width at the wide end of the focal range is the biggest fear I have at this point. I need and love the ultra wide angle. Currently the EF-S 10-22 is my favourite outdoor lens. I know that I can't expect such extreme angles at a M4/3 but is there at least some lens available with considerable wide angle performance?


Other necessary features for landscapes would be the ability to attach filter systems or at least a CPL filter. Bulb mode and manual exposure features + bracketing would be important as well. What about remote shutters? Is there something available?



Anyone who took a m4/3 out for some serious landscape shooting?




photoshop - How can I fix the blur in this photo?


Someone else took this picture & the background was focused instead of us. please help.It was my farewell picture and It really would be great if someone can help me.enter image description here




Friday, 27 September 2019

sunset - What is "golden hour"?


I've heard that as a photographer, I should be taking advantage of time near sunset and sunrise called "golden hour".



  • When exactly is golden hour?

  • Why is it important in photography?

  • What is the history behind golden hour - e.g. where does the name come from?



Answer



The golden hour is the period of time (roughly an hour) immediately either side of sunrise/sunset. At this time the sun is very low in the sky. As a result the light passes through much more of the atmosphere. The result of this is that:





  • the high frequencies (blues) are filtered out giving a very warm light




  • the light is diffused by particles in the air, softening the light for softer shadows




  • the lighting angle is very low which gives great sculpting light, and long shadows





  • the intensity of direct sunlight is much reduced, allowing you to shoot into the sun without silhouetting.




All of this means you can grab images like this. The reduced intensity of the direct sunlight means the light from the rest of the sky is brighter by comparison, this provides a great soft fill in light, allowing the direct sunlight to be used as a back/rim light to accent shapes.


The term "golden" partially refers to the warm colour of the light, and partially to the fact that everything you shoot turns to gold during the golden hour!


Thursday, 26 September 2019

software - How can I use my Canon EOS 20D with Vista x64?


It appears that Canon do not offer native 64-bit drivers for any of their range of digital cameras; Is there any way to work around this?


EDIT Would I be better upgrading to Windows 7 x64, or no better off?



Answer




This just in: Microsoft just released Camera Codec Pack v.16.0.0652.0621, which is supposed to provide codecs to power Windows Live Photo and Windows Explorer for the following cameras:



  • Canon: EOS 1000D (EOS Kiss F in Japan and the EOS Rebel XS in North America), EOS 10D, EOS 1D Mk2, EOS 1D Mk3, EOS 1D Mk4, EOS 1D Mk2 N, EOS 1Ds Mk2, EOS 1Ds Mk3, EOS 20D, EOS 300D (the Kiss Digital in Japan and the Digital Rebel in North America) , EOS 30D, EOS 350D (the Canon EOS Kiss Digital N in Japan and EOS Digital Rebel XT in North America), EOS 400D (the Kiss Digital X in Japan and the Digital Rebel XTi in North America), EOS 40D, EOS 450D (EOS Kiss X2 in Japan and the EOS Rebel XSi in North America), EOS 500D (EOS Kiss X3 in Japan and the EOS Rebel T1i in North America), EOS 550D (EOS Kiss X4 in Japan, and as the EOS Rebel T2i in North America), EOS 50D, EOS 5D, EOS 5D Mk2, EOS 7D, EOS D30, EOS D60, G2, G3, G5, G6, G9, G10, G11, Pro1, S90

  • Nikon: D100, D1H, D200, D2H, D2Hs, D2X, D2Xs, D3, D3s, D300, D3000, D300s, D3X, D40, D40x, D50, D5000, D60, D70, D700, D70s, D80, D90, P6000 Sony: A100, A200, A230, A300, A330, A350, A380, A700, A850, A900, DSC-R1

  • Olympus: C7070, C8080, E1, E10, E20, E3, E30, E300, E330, E400, E410, E420, E450, E500, E510, E520, E620, EP1

  • Pentax (PEF formats only): K100D, K100D Super, K10D, K110D, K200D, K20D, K7, K-x, *ist D, *ist DL, *ist DS

  • Leica: Digilux 3, D-LUX4, M8, M9

  • Minolta: DiMage A1, DiMage A2, Maxxum 7D (Dynax 7D in Europe, α-7 Digital in Japan)

  • Epson: RD1

  • Panasonic: G1, GH1, GF1, LX3



This codec pack should help out quite a bit for Win-64 users.


focus - How could I achieve stock quality sharpness?


I am using Canon 600d equipped with 18-55mm kit lens and also I bought 50mm 1.8. I am trying to take pin sharp pictures to upload them for sale.I am shooting still objects and models time to time. I shoot at Raw for post production. Using sturdy tripod, cable release and even mirror lock up if its necessary. I don't use anything but natural light for my pictures so shutter speed is an issue.


I wonder if the low shutter speed is my problem or cheap quality lens limitation. I might overreact and expect too much from my lenses but still my photos have to be sharp for sale and I would like to achieve pin sharp photos while shooting not after editing.


Thank you very much.



Heres a photo that I've taken. Bit sharpened and edited but gives idea.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/96728198@N04/with/8895052468/



Answer



For sharp images, you need the right combination of:



  • Focus

  • Aperture

  • Shutter speed

  • Lens



the first three are critical, it makes no difference what lens you have without the first 3.


-Focus: your focus point must be exactly where you want focus to be. Do not 'focus and recompose', meaning getting focus then moving the camera to compose the shot. Instead, compose then choose the appropriate focus point in your camera. You may need to test your camera/lens combination for accurate focus. Look here for instructions.


-Aperture: aperture is critical to good focus, because it impacts the depth of field and the circle of confusion. What this means is that as you open the aperture of your lens (say f3.5), the depth of what is in focus gets shorter. If you have a small aperture (f16) more depth is in focus at one time. An example is if you focus on a model's nose, with a wide aperture, often that model's eyes will be out of focus. Get to know and use a DOF chart.


-Shutter speed: This is less of an issue with a tripod, but shutter speed is critical for sharp focus because any camera shake can cause blurring. Generally, it is recommended to use a tripod for speeds less than 1/60, or 1/ your focal length (if shooting a 500mm lens, you need a speed of 1/500 or greater to eliminate shake from hand holding the camera). If your subject is moving, you need to increase the shutter speed to reduce blurring from subject motion. If you are shooting multi-second exposures, you can sometimes see blurring from the movement of the mirror, though that can also mean you have a bad tripod.


-Lens: if you have mastered all of the above, and still don't have sharp images, then your lens is to blame. The difference in image sharpness between a professional ("L") Canon lens and a kit lens can be shockingly amazing. However, note that this sharpness is usually only really apparent when zooming into the image. Sharp images look good at every perspective, but pixel peepers are really those that zoom in 100% during post editing, and declare whether a lens is truly 'sharp'. Get a new lens only when you have eliminated 1-3 above.


Wednesday, 25 September 2019

camera basics - Are scene modes, white balance, color tones, and similar just post-processing effects?


What happens when the following settings are changed:



  • White balance

  • Color tones

  • Scene modes


Are these parameters affect the way in which the photo is taken or they are just applied by processing by camera after taking the image?



Or do these parameters change the way the image sensor records the image?



Answer



The question What's "real" and what's "virtual" on a (digital) camera? has several answers which list the things which are "real" — that is, the things which affect the capture of the RAW image. To crib from the top answers, these things are:



  • ISO

  • Aperture

  • Shutter Speed

  • Focus


with some more technical things like image stabilization and mirror lockup as well.



The answers there don't really cover what's "not real", except by elimination, so let me go over your specifics.


White balance and color tones do not affect these "real" things directly — they're applied to the RAW image in in-camera (or out of camera) post processing. However, it's not quite straightforward, since the selected options can affect the metering — a very blue-shifted white balance might cause a different interpretation of what the exposure should be than a very yellow-shifted one. That, in turn, may make the camera's automatic modes choose slightly different settings. But that's a bit esoteric: the straight answer is white balance and color tones are "after effects".


But "scene modes" are somewhat different, since they apply a whole grab-bag of different settings. Some of these, like a fast shutter speed for a sports mode, will almost certainly affect the real image. Others, like portrait modes, may simply chose post-processing options more suited for delicate-appearing skin.


Your last two, contrast and sharpness, are also an "it depends". These things are strongly influenced by the lens you use, your aperture selected, and correct focus. So in that sense, they are real and unalterable. But, local and global contrast can also be boosted in post-production, and usually is — in fact, usually very much so in the default JPEG output from most cameras. Without that, the out-of-camera images would look much more dull and flat than we are accustomed to. A good camera — or RAW processing software — will give you a lot of individual control over these parameters in the post-processing sense.


shutter speed - How to photograph panning with a point and shoot camera?


I have recently learnt about panning photography on the internet and I was curious about capturing one myself,


But as an amateur I just own a Point and shoot camera (Samsung SL30),


I have experimented through it thoroughly and the only scene mode with longer shutter speed is Fireworks mode(4s),


But when I used this mode to take a panning photograph, all I got was an Over Exposed image,


How can I take a panning photograph with a point and shoot camera?




Answer



You still need to expose your photograph correctly. So if you're taking a panning photograph in bright light you have to either use a very narrow aperture or a filter, or both. Of course with a P&S camera, both those are difficult: you may have no control over the aperture at all, and there may be no easy way to attach a filter. If that's the case, you'll have to take your panning photographs in darker lighting.


You don't need ultra-long shutter speeds like 4 seconds, though: my picture here was only 1/15 of a second. If you are closer to your subject and it's moving faster, you can probably get away with an even faster shutter speed.


One thing you could try, although I've never tried this and it may be too awkward to pan steadily, is hold your sunglasses in front of the lens as you pan, as a makeshift neutral density filter.


Finally, if you try taking panning photographs in darker light in order to achieve the longer shutter speeds, your camera will probably increase its ISO to prevent camera shake, which is the opposite of what you want (since panning is, in one sense, controlled camera shake). If your camera has a mode that lets you force the ISO to its lowest value, you probably want to use that mode.


Of course, I hope you've also read this answer -- maybe all you need to do with your camera is leave it in Auto mode, zoom in as far as you can, and take pictures of nearby, fast-moving objects.


micro four thirds - Does sensor size dictate lens size with all other things equal?



Background


I'm considering switching from DSLR to mirrorless and have been researching the micro four thirds (M43/MFT) and Sony's new Alpha 7 (A7). While Sony hasn't released many lenses for this new system, many are saying the lenses will be much larger and heavier due to the sensor being larger than MFT, despite the Sony being the same size as popular MFT cameras (Olympus OM-D E-M1). Lens size and weight is important to me since I'm wanting roughly APS-C quality or better in a much more portable system.


Question


How are people making the assumption that the full frame sensor of the Sony A7 will net larger heavier lenses to be equivalent to MFT versions? Does this pertain to width, length, or both? Would it be possible for Sony to eventually release smaller lenses similar to the Olympus MFT system without cropping the full frame sensor?



Answer



All other things being equal, yes.


There are two primary reasons why this is so.




  • To maintain the same amount of field intensity of light over a larger area, a lens used with a larger sensor has to be able to collect more total light than a lens used with a smaller sensor. This means a larger entrance pupil, which usually works out to require a larger front element.





  • The larger the sensor, the longer the focal length of a lens needs to be to give the same Field of View (FoV), and the larger an image circle it needs to project. On a compact camera with a small 1/1.6" sensor, a 50mm lens gives the same FoV as a 215mm telephoto lens does on a 35mm film camera. On an APS-C camera, a 50mm lens results in an FoV that is in the beginning of the telephoto range for a 35mm camera, 75-80mm. On a 35mm camera a 50mm lens is considered normal, because the focal length is very near the registration distance of the camera and because that focal length is roughly equal to the diagonal measurement of the plane that records the image. A medium format camera will give an FoV using a 50mm lens that is about equal to a 32mm lens paired with a 35mm camera. On a Large format 4X5 camera a 50mm lens gives an FoV about equal to a 13mm lens on a 35mm camera.
    a) Especially with longer focal lengths, the physics involved are hard to overcome. Although the strict technical definition of a telephoto lens is one that is designed so that the distance from the image plane to the front of the lens is shorter than the focal length of the lens, there is only so much one can do in reducing the size of a lens with a long focal length. This is especially true if the cost to produce such a lens is considered.
    b) Just as a 50mm lens used on a 4x5 camera must project a light circle considerably larger than the light circle cast by a 50mm lens designed for a 35mm camera, lenses designed for smaller sensors can project smaller light circles. This allows the lenses to be smaller in diameter. It also allows them to be made with less quantities of some of the most expensive materials used in a lens: the corrector element at the rear of the front group.




So a 50mm lens designed for a small compact can be both shorter and smaller in diameter than a 215mm lens that gives the same FoV on a 35mm camera. Even in terms of Micro Four-Thirds sized sensors, only a 100mm lens that throws a light circle slightly larger than 22mm is needed to provide the same FoV as a 200mm lens throwing a light circle at least 44mm in diameter on a full frame camera. An APS-C camera would need a 125-133mm lens with a 27-29mm light circle, depending on whether it is a Canon APS-C or Nikon/Pentax/Samsung/Sony.


Tuesday, 24 September 2019

exposure - Why am I getting black photos when I use the Manual feature on my DSLR?


I was taking photos a few days ago, and I had it set to Manual. After about four photos, the rest started coming out black. I could see through my eyepiece clearly, and it took the photo normally, but when I reviewed it they were all black.



Answer



"Manual" means that it is up to you to set the correct exposure. It's conspicuous that you didn't mention what exposure settings you were using, so I'm not sure that you realize that you have to do that yourself.


DSLRs have light meters in the viewfinder which show how over/under-exposed your manual settings are, according to the auto-exposure system. On Nikon cameras it shows up as a bar:


+        0        -

<--|--|--|--|--|-->

If the meter is in the middle, then the autoexposure system considers the picture correctly exposed. If the meter is to the left, it is overexposed, and to the right, it is underexposed.


Of course, there's no point in using manual if you blindly follow the autoexposure system's recommendations. But if the meter shows severe underexposure, then you're probably underexposing the image and will get a black image.


Increase the aperture or decrease the shutter speed, or switch to an automatic mode (such as P, S, or A).


autofocus - Why are some big telephoto lenses so expensive compared to telescopes?


I'm looking at an ad for a used Canon 1200mm f/5.6L EF USM Autofocus Lens where they are asking $180,000. Yes, that's not a typo.


I don't get it.


I'm an amateur astronomer and I know I can buy a killer 1200m refractor for well less than $180k. What makes this so expensive? I know that a good refractor only has a triplet (or a doublet) as the objective and a small, but complex, eyepiece. The Canon lens has 13 elements, 2 of which are flourite.


This isn't about this particular lens, and this question may well be better for an astronomy forum


But why are camera lens so much more expensive than refractor telescopes?




Answer





  • Rarity. There were only approximately 20 of these now out of production lenses ever made. When they were in production they sold for about $90,000 (US). Due to the time needed to grow the large fluorite crystal used in the 3rd element of the lens, once ordered they took about 18 months to produce.




  • Autofocus Capability. These lenses include auto focus capability. Moving focus elements as large and heavy as this requires mechanisms that are both robust and extremely precise. Moving them fast enough to be used to photograph sporting events means they must also be very powerful.




  • Maximum Aperture The EF 1200mm f/5.6 L requires an entrance pupil of 214mm (8.4 inches). A 1200mm f/8 telescope needs only a 150mm wide objective. When you compare the areas of a 214mm circle to that of a 150mm circle, you see that it takes at least twice as much material to create a lens 214mm wide compared to 150mm wide. And that is before you consider that the larger lens element must also be thicker in the center to maintain the same amount of curvature on the surfaces.





  • Optical Image Quality While things like coma and chromatic aberration are expected at the edges of the field of view of a large refracting telescope, they are not as acceptable in a camera lens. And the larger the diameter of a lens is, the more correction must be applied to obtain the same image quality. This requires more elements in the lens, and these additional elements are almost always made of exotic materials with a higher refractive index and lower mass density than normal optical glass. They must also be precisely shaped to almost insane tolerances to perform as designed.




  • Image Circle Diameter A telescope need only to cast an image circle the size of a human eye's pupil: approximately 8mm in diameter. A camera lens intended for use with a Full frame camera must cast an image circle approximately 44mm in diameter.




  • Minimum Focus Distance Many telescopes are designed to focus only at longer distances, some even only at infinity. Camera lenses such as the EF 1200mm f/5.6 L can focus at infinity but are expected to focus at shorter distances as well.





Monday, 23 September 2019

Recommended shutter speed for action sports?


What shutter speed do professional sports photographers typically use for action sports like football and basketball?




Sunday, 22 September 2019

body - What does the theta symbol near the flash represent?


On my camera, between the mode dial and the flash, there is a white theta symbol. I've also seen it on review sites in pictures of other cameras, often in different locations but always near the pop-up flash. Why is it there, is it useful, and if so, how?


enter image description here



Answer



This indicates the plane that the image sensor lies in, so you can use to calculate the exact distance between your subject and your "film".


Are the contacts on different extension tubes in Soligor Pentax AF set supposed to be different?


My extension tube set (Soligor for Pentax AF + P/KA) was not working correctly on my DSLR, so I checked the tubes, and found an interesting difference. It has three tubes (12mm, 20mm, 36mm).


This is a photo of the 20mm tube:


enter image description here


and this a photo of the 12mm tube (the 36mm is similar to this one):


enter image description here


Note the difference of the third (from the left) pin. On the 20mm tube it is similar to the other pins, on the 12mm tube it is always recessed.


According to Bojidar Dimitrov's K-mount page this pin transfers the "A" aperture settings information:




On the body mount, the "*" contact is slightly recessed. On the lens mount, "*" is a small pin whose head can be raised or lowered depending on the position of the lens aperture ring. When a numeric f-stop is selected, the pin's head is lowered so that it does not make contact with body's "*" contact; when the "A" aperture setting is engaged, the pin's head is raised, and it makes electrical contact with the body's "*" contact.



This explains the strange behavior of the extension tube. If I use the 20mm tube the camera always thinks that the aperture ring of the lens ( SMC PENTAX-A 50mm f2 in my test ) is set to "A" setting. It also explains why my camera+12mm+20mm+lens setup was not working the same way as my camera+20mm+12mm+lens setup.


Is it some kind of bug (they mixed up the tubes)? Or maybe it's just an undocumented feature of the extension tube set to have different elements? Is there a camera+lens combination when the non-recessed pin of 20mm has advantages?



Answer



I've sent an e-mail to Soligor (as suggested by Pearsonartphoto) and their answer is:



It is not a bug, it is a normal feature. Why our manufacturer did it in this way, I don't know.



photoshop - How can I recreate the Instagram Filter "Slumber"?


I am trying to recreate the Slumber filter of Instagram, but I am stuck at a certain point. Below you can see the Instagram, the original and my edited file. It seems like I am missing one important last step, but I can't figure out what it is. Does anyone of you have a clue?



  1. Instagram Version


Instagram




  1. Original


Original (already edited a bit, but the filter is used on that file)



  1. My Edited


Own edit attempt




What drains the battery of DSLRs the most?


I have found that the battery life of DSLRs is often denoted in terms of possible shots rather than in running time (e.g. according to snapsort, one battery life on a EOS 70D is enough for 920 shots vs. 1100 shots on a 40D). This got me thinking as to what are the main sources of power/battery drainage on DSLRs (specifically, Canon EOS cameras), and what can in turn be done to increase battery life.


So:



  1. Apart from taking a picture, what are the functions/actions that drain the battery the most and how do those compare to the power reqired for taking a picture? (I'm especially interested in any setting/function that will have a significant impact on battery life; for example, the image stabilisation function on some ES-F lenses? Continuous focusing using AI Servo AF?)

  2. While I'm out taking pictures, is it 'worth it' to turn the camera off in between shots (assuming the intervals will rather be minutes/tens of minutes than hours)? Or is the power consumption while the camera is turned on but not taking pictures negligible?

  3. How big an impact does the LCD screen have on the battery life? I assume using the Liveview instead of the Viewfinder continuously will drain the battery faster. However I usually use the Viewfinder and have only the info display turned on (the one where I can access the quick settings). Does this drain the battery considerably as well (i.e. is it wort considering turning it off entirely)?



Answer




LCD screen and any wireless features like Bluetooth, WiFi or GPS would be the heaviest drain. This would be followed by flash/focus-assist then auto-focus, image stabilization would probably be next. Just being on (or even off and providing enough power for the display counts) would be a minor drain. Keeping the camera on between shots won't do too much. IS/VR/OS and AF probably don't drain much as long as you aren't activating the camera's focus. But most dSLRs turn on really quick so if you are trying to get the most out of your battery just shut the camera off when you aren't taking a picture.


To save battery life don't use live preview or video features and turn off the show picture after every shot feature.


Does taking photo using the camera fastest shutter speed shorten the life of a camera?


Does taking photo using the camera fastest shutter speed shorten the life of a camera?


Would this apply apply to all types of camera, regardless if it is a DSLR, Point & Shoot or Mirrorless? Will continuously or always shooting at the camera's fastest shutter speed shorten the camera life?




Saturday, 21 September 2019

file management - How can I find all sets of photos taken on the same date across years


I want to create a memories album and for that wanted to find all groups of photos that are on the same date, so that I can see what trend I can show across the years. It's similar to "Today in the years past" ...etc. This is ideal for birthdays, anniversaries ...etc.



I have looked at How to find all photos taken in April - any April? but they work only on a selected date, it doesn't get a me a set of photos and dates.


see the script in my previous question, that could possibly work.


Given an input set of images from years 2004 - 2014


Ideally the output needs to be something like this:


April 01 - Found: [img1, img2, img3 ...] Missing: []
January 31 - Found: [img34, img342, img54...] Missing: [2009,2004]

Basically, i need to be able to sort by MISSING count as well, so that I can filter for MISSING = 0 (i.e. found images in all years), or MISSING < 2 (missing a couple of years) ...etc.


Maybe this can be done with existing software?



Answer




Based on Tfuto's answer, I was able to generate a CSV file with the datecreated for my 17000 images:


exiftool . -ext .jpg -r -csv -T -CreateDate -G -d %Y-%m-%d > test.csv

This took 22 mins to run. I measured it using the powershell measure-command {cmd above} Then I used excel to analyze the file to come up something like the following:


DayMonth    MonthDay    YearsMissing    YearCount
01-Jan 01-01 20 6
26-Feb 02-26 21 5
08-Apr 04-08 21 5
12-Jun 06-12 21 5
31-Dec 12-31 21 5

03-Feb 02-03 22 4
13-Feb 02-13 22 4

This clearly gives me what I want, and you can see the dates on which I've had photos consistently across many years.


I don't think I can attach the excel file here, so let me know if you need it and I can mail it to you. I solved the problem with brute-force, as we have 366 days at max (leap years) and X number of years covered. (since the invention of exif in '93, 21 years so far, or 80 years over a person's lifespan). I just created a table like that and in each I check if that date exists in our data set, if yes mark it, if not leave it blank. In the end I can count the marks for each date to get the chart above. I also create a Pivottable that shows the count of files for each day & year, allowing further analysis and plotting. This actually also answers my earlier question Excel Pivottable


This gets me the common dates, but not the images themselves, I have to then filter the data according to the MonthDay I'm interested in and can see the list of images. I also created hyperlinks in the excel for the images & folders so I can click to view them directly.


I would think this exercise would have been a lot easier, if I could've written a plugin for a catalog app (like picasa). That's why it's important to have open access to your databases (API's).


As it stands, this is not a good solution for a computer novice to use. I think there is still a scope for improvement to create a simple app/script that does this for the user. (Maybe Damnion or Picasa or something else can do this. ) see some mobile apps


lens - What is the best techniques to photograph large rugs?


I am trying to take pictures of small and large rugs. I have Canon 6D with 24-70mm lens. Could you please suggest the best way for mounting the camera to the ceiling, and any other recommendations for my camera/lens setup?


The ceiling has steel supports with height around 12ft (3.6 metres).


There are about 4000 rugs, small and too large. the use case for photos is for uploading in website for customers




cityscape - How can I make an interesting, unique photograph of a city skyline?


I was down by Boston's Charles River Esplanade yesterday, and it was picture-postcard pretty. I took a break from my usual practice of taking pictures of my kids to take a picture of the view from the Longfellow Bridge:


The Charles River and Back Bay neighborhood as seen from the Longfellow Bridge


And yep, it's postcard pretty. It looks like one of a million generic images one can find on 50¢ postcards in corner stores all over town — and in every other town in the world with a slightly different scene.


This is why I tend to make sure there's people in my pictures; I understand people and how they are unique and expressive, and can, in my best moments, make photographs of them that capture some of their special humanity. In a grand, metaphorical way, cities are often described as having personality — can one capture this in a cityscape photograph, or does that really only come out in street photography with details of people or architecture? I've seen some amazing cityscapes that did feel effective, but I can't really identify or quantify what it is about them that makes them work.


One could obviously go all postmodern on this, and apply special effects either in camera or in post-processing. But I'm not talking about that. I'm wondering about the straight genre of cityscapes — how can I say something more than "forgettable done-before postcard image"?



Answer




Ask yourself the following before you press the shutter:


1 - Is it a good location?


I'm quite familiar with that location so I'll mention some specifics: the Longfellow bridge is a beautiful view in person, but there are 2 flaws that make it tough to produce a compelling photo. (1) It's a narrow bridge, roughly a quarter mile long but the sidewalk is 2 feet wide. So your options for composition are very limited. (2) You're about a half mile away from land, with a lot of water and sky in the way, so it doesn't always lend itself to wide-angle shots. In general you want to get as close as you can.


In addition you want to make sure everything in the frame is something you want in the frame. It doesn't really apply here since the view is nice, but if there's a big ugly water tower or boarded up building in the way, that may not be something you want.


2 - Is it a unique location?


As you said, it's postcard pretty. Meaning everyone who comes by wants to get that shot. And since the bridge is so narrow, everyone is taking the exact same picture. And in this case I do mean as similar as you can get. Try taking a shot from somewhere people don't always do it. If you can get on a roof somewhere, that's great - everyone else is stuck with the same perspective at ground level. Or if you can figure out how to make a location that most people skip work for you, that's even better. For example, if there's a fence in the way, get right up to it and shoot with a wide aperture to hide it.


2.5 - Is there something unique about the location RIGHT NOW?


All that said, you can make a great shot in a cliché location by being in the right spot at the right time. People have taken a trillion shots of the moon, but if you get a silhouette hot air balloon or bald eagle right in front of it, that's pretty cool. As far as a skyline goes, are the buildings lit up a funny color for a sports team? Are there fireworks? Are the Blue Angels flying overhead? These are just a couple ideas.


3 - Is the image well-composed?


You should always be asking this, but just a refresher - is everything that I want in the image, actually in the image? Is there anything in there that I don't want in there? The good thing about cityscapes is you usually have time to recompose, try again if some ugly tourist hat pops up in front of you. In this case, the boats are really nice - they add some interest to the image. On the other hand, that bird in the top middle is distracting.



4 - What's compelling about the image?


Last, why are you taking the picture? You have to ask yourself is it just a nice snapshot, or are you trying to show something. What's special about this that I'm taking a picture of it? Do the colors look special at sunset, is there motion that you can freeze, or can you add motion by using a slower shutter speed? There's nothing "wrong" with a snapshot, but generally there's no artistic intent in there. What's your intent?


Friday, 20 September 2019

Why is an electronic shutter not common in most SLR even though is so practical?



Many point and shoot cameras have an electronic shutter. I only know of one good reason to have the electronic shutter: No flash synch speeds limitations; And that reason by itself i would think suffices to include it in any decent modern SLR.




storage - How should a DSLR camera, lens, and battery be stored?


How should a dslr camera, lens, and batteries be stored if they aren't going to be used for weeks-- if not months? Is it dependent on manufacturer (Nikon, Canon, etc)?



Is there any risk of damage if it's stored away for an extended period of time?



Answer



You can either store the camera with the lens attached, or separate with lens and camera covers attached.


How to store batteries depends on what kind you are using. Rechargable batteries should be safe to keep in the camera, chemical batteries should definitely be removed as the can leak acid after a long period of storage. The only reason to keep the batteries in the camera would be to not lose the settings (e.g. date and time).


Other than that, use common sense. Don't store the equipment in a damp place, in a draught, or in direct sunlight.


I recently took out my EOS 5D that I put away about a year ago, turned on the power and it's ready to go.


equipment protection - What LCD protector should I get for a Nikon D5100?


Just bought my wife the D5100 as a gift and I was looking for recommendations for a LCD screen protector. The articulating screen was part of the reason I got the camera, but it obviously limits the options of screen protectors given the space constraints.



I have the Zagg product on my iPhone, and I'm a big fan (given that I beat the crap out of my phone). However, I'm concerned it is too shiny for this application.




equipment protection - Is it safe to bring my camera with me when cycling?


I use to do a lot of cycling on a relatively difficult trails, especially in mountains. I was wondering how safe is it to bring my Canon 60D with me (in the backpack on my back). Can I damage it with all those vibrations and rough riding?


Exclude chance of falling down from the equation, as that's pretty obvious.



Answer



I have been a mountain bike rider since 2000, I do a lot of trails, singletrack and even downhill. I have some experience with crashes and carrying cameras. My most sincere advice as both, a biker and a photographer is, you can't do both.


Most of the time having delicate equipment in your backpack keeps you from fully enjoying the ride, because you'll always be trying to protect it. So when I say you can't do both I mean you should start your ride deciding whether it will be a mountain biking ride or a photo tour, and plan accordingly.



I assume you also have experience in biking so I have nothing to say there, but if you plan to take your camera with you, my suggestions are:



  1. Plan your ride so it will be a photo oriented ride. Think of enjoying photography rather than enjoying biking, the bike will be your means of transport, a secondary topic.

  2. Preferably ride routes you already know and feel really confident. I mean that you master the techniques you need to ride the trial and feel no special or excessive difficulty. Ride difficult trails several times before taking the camera there.

  3. Given that you know the route, plan the spots where you are going to take the pictures. If you go and try to find every single good shot, it may be more convenient to take a hike rather than a bike ride.

  4. If you have alternatives to get to the points where you want to take photographs, take the route you feel easier.

  5. If other riders are going to accompany you, choose people who wont be complaining for you stopping constantly or will be hurrying you all the time. (You won't enjoy either riding nor photographing, and you won't let them enjoy their riding).

  6. If you are going to photograph the other riders in action, let them know beforehand and be sure they are willing to pose, repeat maneuvers and go back and forth on the photographically interesting parts of the trials.

  7. Maybe the most important: Modify your riding technique, take it more on the safe side, don't speed as usual, don't try to conquer the usual obstacles, walk down the riskiest parts even if you feel confident. You can't plan a crash, so you can't know if a protective bag will be enough against a specific crash (You may hit a log, a rock, a low branch...). Also, if you don't mind, adjust your bike's suspension to be softer and slower rebound. You'll fell the bike a little sluggish but that will reduce shake and vibration to the camera. Use a standing riding position while crossing rock gardens if your suspension is not soft enough or if you don't have a suspension bike.

  8. Consider investing in good quick access backpacks (As said in previous answers, your body will absorb vibration). I suggest the ones having waist straps and chest straps, as they can be snug-fit. A loose backpack induces more vibration and makes riding more difficult. Even so, most quick access packs, only allow easy access to the camera, the accessories have regular access methods, so be really patient when changing lens, engaging a speedlite, etc. Be really careful not to forget little pieces of equipment or to carefully zip close EVERY pocket in your pack. (See point 5).


  9. Plan for the micro weather. Sometimes, mountain biking takes you to places with different temperature and humidity than the general weather, as for example, near a waterfall, a highly forested canyon, windy mountain tops. Prepare to protect the camera in these situations.

  10. Finally, if you prefer to enjoy the ride, the trail is unknown, are going with people you're not familiar with, have high risk of bad weather, etc, It may be better to take a point and shoot, or an inexpensive camera/lens if you have one. The P&S is esaier to carry and protect with a simple plastic bag or ziplock and can be carried in a small pouch attached to your chest-strap bike specific backpack, so it will be easier to take in and out for that quick pic. This is also advisable if you do a ride as part of the planning stage for a more defined photo session, i.e. to make draft shots.


Thursday, 19 September 2019

How does focal length determine lens quality?



What does an 18 - 50 mm lens mean? Are those numbers the first focal length and second focal length? How do you use this parameter to judge what kind of lens to buy? Does more equal better?




photoshop - How can I resize this photo for a 16" x 20" frame?


So I have a photo of a friend that was merged not sure if that's the right word for it. I am doing a canvas for him 16x20. I have tried to print the pic, that will not be a canvas wrap. This file is huge and I have asked several of my close friends that are photographers to talk me through resizing it. They even tried for me and it's still cutting off about 3 inches.Timmy tattooing Timmy


I'm at a lose any suggestions? The shoes are very important to stay in frame





canon - Can I use a EF lens with a EF-S camera?


I have a canon 760D. It has a EF-S lens mount. Am I able to use a EF lens with my camera?



Answer




The short answer to your question is yes, an EF lens can be used on a crop-sensor (EF-S) Canon camera.


The longer answer is that EF-S lenses are designed for crop-sensor lenses, the 's' denotes a smaller image circle, but it's otherwise a compatible mount. So, lenses designed for full frame (EF) will also work on your camera.


Going the other way, however, does not work, period. Some of the EF-S lenses protrude into the body and so for full frame cameras that would cause the mirror to come into contact and get damaged, but even if they do not, they can't be used.


nikon - D800 Previews Much Brighter in Camera, Very Dark When Rendered


I've been shooting with the D800 for about 6 months now, and I've noticed that the in-camera previews appear much brighter and more properly exposed.


But when I load the RAW images into either Aperture or Lightroom (on the Mac), the rendered previews are very dark and often under-exposed. This has been quite vexing since when shooting the previews look great and the image appears properly exposed, but when it comes time to process the images appear very dark.


What might be the problem?



Answer




The camera will display the image based on your existing picture control settings, but these settings don't specifically mean anything when dealing with the NEF after the fact. Lightroom has some presets (I don't use Aperture, so I can't speak to it) for raw development that apply a "start point" that are quite similar to the picture controls, but are not quite the same. The View NX2 software supplied by Nikon will use the picture control settings from the camera as the information about your current camera settings are stored in the image file, but you can still adjust from there.


Bear in mind that every time you display the NEF, something has to interpret that raw sensor data into an image (unless it uses the embedded JPG). How it does that depends very much on the application doing the work. The camera and NX2 are going to be fairly similar, other applications will vary.


Also, make sure your display is calibrated. That's pretty important as the image may appear worse than it actually is.


equipment recommendation - Photographing Older Documents


I'm doing a project with a historical group. They have a nice collection of diaries, and want to digitize them, but haven't found anyone interested in doing it, even if they pay them. Some of the items date to the 1700's, and are fragile. So, it looks like it will be me. We've thought of just scanning them. but that requires flattening them, and I'm not sure they would survive. Preservation isn't supposed to preserve at the cost of destruction.


I have a Panasonic Lumix DMC-G3. When I purchased it, it was rated the highest for non-flash, low light photography, and it has done a fantastic job on older documents in various repositories that do not allow flash photography. Those projects, however, have been for me, and I could drop, etc. I just thought it might be easier to set it up so that all I needed to do was turn the page, and eliminate all of the cropping.


Are there any suggestions on how to photograph, and what equipment to purchase? The goal is to sell a CD with the original documents, as well as volunteer transcriptions. Any thoughts would be appreciated.




How durable are external lens coatings?


After reviewing some recent pictures, I was a little bit concerned that the image quality of the first lens that I bought (a Pentax FA 35mm f2.0 AL), because back then I was obsessed with keeping the lens front element clean, and until I got a UV filter to attach on it, I cleaned it compulsively.


So, is there a real risk of the coating wearing out just by rubbing the lens with microfiber cloths and sometimes using a lens cleaning solution?



Answer



Anytime you clean a coated surface on an optical lens you risk damaging the coating. Repeated cleaning, especially if done too vigorously, could eventually wear the coating down.


The good news is that the critical coatings for lenses are those inside the lens that prevent light from bouncing off the back side of an element causing flare or ghosting. In general a UV filter over a front element will cause far more image degradation than wearing off the coating on the front element. The best practice for protecting the front element of your lens is to use a hood, which also contributes to better image quality by reducing glare from off axis light rather than subtracting from it like a flat filter will.



I'm fairly certain any reduction in image quality you are seeing in your pictures is a result of the filter on your lens, not wear to the coating on the front element.


Wednesday, 18 September 2019

equipment recommendation - Could I use an IPS based TV to edit photos in a color-calibrated environment?


Over the past weeks, I've been trying to get all of my color issues worked out. Getting closer, but I'm not there. I've calibrated my monitor with a friend's calibrator and that helped. I'm using the profiles provided by the local processor.


It's close. How close depends on the viewing angle.


So I'm thinking IPS monitor might be a good next step.


Googling around, I see that I could get an 32" IPS based TV for $400


Given that IPS based 22/23" monitors run $250-$300, this seems like a lot more monitor for not much more money.



What are the faults in this logic?




How can I improve my food photography when limited to a point and shoot?



Previously I have used a Sony DSLR A580 camera along with its 50mm 1.8 lens to take pictures of food. Personally, I really liked that lens. At the moment, I am back to my old Samsung i8 Point and Shoot Camera and am interested in getting close to similar results like those attained from the Sony for photographing food. There are various presets available in the Samsung, but none of them are as good. Kindly drop in your suggestions that would help me improve my shooting skills while photographing food with my Samsung.Sony DSLR-A580


Sony - 2 Sony - 3 Sony - 4


I could not provide a similar image for comparison of both the cameras (as Sony A580 is better than my point and shoot any day), but just presented an idea of what I am trying to capture.


PS: Sorry if the food is mouth-watering. :P



Answer



Actually a point-and-shoot is one of the best tool for taking photos for food.


I usually have a DSLR and a point-and-shoot with me, when I want to take photos of food however, I usually use the point-and-shoot thanks to its macro mode.


Most of us shoot our plate of food top-down, framing the shot so that the whole plate is included.


Sorry but that can quickly become boring after 5 shots.


Macro mode is usually found on point-and-shoot. DSLR on the other hand has very limited macro ability until you actually go spend some money on a macro lens.



That is why I prefer using my point-and-shoot! It can shoot the details! I can focus as close as 3 or 4 cm and get very nice photo of my food. My point-and-shoot has a flip-out screen so I can shoot from all kinds of angle.


I can shoot across the plate horizontally without leaving my chair and ducking by the side of the table. I can fill the entire photo with the actual food showing its texture.


As a bonus, usually its easy to get the food in focus since point-and-shoot has a high DOF.


Trust me, a point-and-shoot is better than a DSLR with a kit lens when it comes to food.


You need to get the White Balance right, and you need to light the food well. The best light is when you are eating right next to a huge and bright window at day time.


At night, however, you must find ways to create a soft and pleasing light, which usually involves the use of an external flash. This is not an option for you it seems so I will just leave it.


You also want to make your food look YUMMY. If it is hot food you are shooting, steam will be a plus. Food when freshly prepared are usually shinny since they are wet or there are oil, so if you leave it for too long it will become dull and it will not look nice.


There are things that you can do to create steam and make your food shinny, two simple ways are:



  • light a cigarette and place it behind the food


  • using a spraying bottle, spray oil on your food to keep it looking fresh


Of course, these may not be the best thing to do when you are planning to actually eat it, but you can definitely keep in mind and try these out when you are allowed to


Lastly food photography actually is very often fake. Ice cream made of clay.... boiling water is actually ice cold with air bubbles manually pumped into it.... etc


So be creative. Good luck!


Tuesday, 17 September 2019

post processing - What workflow will preserve color accuracy?


My current workflow as regards color spaces is this:




  • Shoot in Adobe98 colorspace in RAW.

  • Process on a calibrated Mac monitor (I believe that the gamma is 2.2) using Lightroom

  • Produce jpgs in sRGB for web deployment.

  • Upload said images to a website where people can buy them.


My problem is this: the colors in lightroom don't match the colors of the images on the website, even when viewed on the same monitor. I assume that that's because of the change in color spaces. Should I maintain an adobe colorspace all the way, then? Is it safe to assume that browsers will be able to read and interpret color spaces other than sRGB? And how to deal with a potential customer who doesn't have a calibrated monitor, and therefore sees a different version of the image than the one I've made? That last can lead to them either not buying the image because they don't like the color, or them buying the image and getting frustrated that the colors don't match (aren't as vibrant, etc) as what they're expecting.



Answer



You need to be embedding a color profile in you image, as also using a browser that supports color management.


Also, like Guffa said even with correct color management on your part, using color profiles and a calibrated monitor, you can't really control their computer.



How to get this particular black and white look?



I would like to know how to get this particular effect in photoshop.


enter image description here





Monday, 16 September 2019

equipment recommendation - How does the lens calibration feature of Sigma Art lenses work?


I am looking at the Sigma 18-35mm ART and the Canon 16-35mm F4L.


As part of my research, I am coming across the "lens calibration" aspect of the Sigma. I am struggling to understand exactly what it is/how it works.


I understand that some have come across focus issues in the Sigma's out of the box and that they have previously had a slight issue with quality control. I am comfortable buying a Canon L lens and not thinking twice about it, but given the reviews of the Sigma I wanted to look into it. Just want to do my due diligence.



In order of importance, my question can be more clearly broken down to these:


1. Does the calibration dock come with the lens, or, if the lens isn't calibrated properly out of the box, do I need to buy more gear to compensate that?


2. Has this played a role in anyone's decision to buy/avoid this lens and in what way?



Answer



Michael Clark's answer covered everything pretty well, but I thought I'd throw in, as a Sigma owner and as a dock owner & user.



Has this played a role in anyone's decision to buy/avoid this lens and in what way?



Not the particular lens you are looking to buy, but I considered the lens dock as a feature when I bought my Sigma lenses. Understand that Sigma, like all third-party lensmakers, have to reverse-engineer the lens communication signals through the lens's electrical contacts. That information (communication protocol, commands, etc.) are not provided to them by the on-brand makers (Canon, Nikon, Sony, etc.).


From time to time, a newer camera body from Canon or Nikon might not work with one or more existing third-part lens, because they broke the off-brand lensmaker's expectations they made from reverse-engineering. Historically, this meant sending your lens back to, Sigma for instance, to have its firmware updated so it work with the latest bodies.



But now, with the Sigma dock, you can download lens firmware updates from the internet and update your lens, without shipping your lens anywhere.


This is such an important innovation, that I think more 3rd-party lensmakers will adopt this tactic in coming years.





How does the lens calibration feature of Sigma Art lenses work?



It works well, and it's easy.


I use the Sigma dock for AF fine tuning on my Nikon D800E. Where the Sigma dock is better than any in-camera AF fine tuning (that I'm familiar with) is that the in-camera tuning adjusts front- or back- focusing for the entire lens.


For instance, a lens might focus perfectly for close-in focus distances (say, 3 feet), but back-focuses for subjects at a distance (perhaps at 50 feet). With in-camera, if you adjust for the long distance (that is, dial in some front-focus, to make the 50-foot shot focus perfectly), then you wind up front-focusing for close-in. It's a compromise: you make the lens perfect for your most often-used distances, knowing you'll be slightly off at the other end.


But, with the Sigma dock, you can adjust the focus for up to 4 focus distances. Thus, it's not all-or-nothing for all focus distances. You are actually changing the autofocus profile at different points in the focus range, making a sort of piece-wise nonlinear adjustment curve to your lens.



It's really quite simple to use. If you don't get the settings right, it's trivial to reset them (i.e., set the values all back to zero).




Aside from the usability of the dock, I wanted to address something you said:



I understand that some have come across focus issues in the Sigma's out of the box and that they have previously had a slight issue with quality control.



I've heard the same thing, but I think if you dig into it, you'll find that Sigma's older, longer focal-length lenses (like the 50-500mm "Bigma", or the older 120-300mm OS) were the most failure prone, and accounted for most of Sigma's reputation problems.


Rather than try to sum up lots of anecdotes, I'll turn to Roger Cicala, founder of LensRentals.com. In his 2011 lens repair data summary, Roger wrote:



During the year I will see this data pop up on various forums, often for the purposes of bashing Sigma lenses. Those who do that are painting with too broad of a brush. Yes, Sigma supertelephoto zooms have reliability problems. The current versions fail, the previous versions failed. But what nobody seems to notice is that the other Sigma lenses NEVER end up on this list. From a reliability standpoint the Sigma wide zooms and primes are extremely reliable.




And the following year in his 2012 lens repair data summary, he wrote:



Sigma’s big zooms still have trouble with their HSM motors and OS units, but Sigma really does seem to be doing better. Their large zoom lenses are still on the list but the frequency is lower than it used to be, in a year when my new accounting system made most numbers look worse. Sigma’s prime lenses and smaller zooms have excellent repair rates.



By accounts I've read, since introducing a full lineup of their Global Vision Series (Art, Sports, and Contemporary) wide and normal primes, Sigma's reputation for build quality and reliability has only gone up.




Disclosure: I own Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG Art, 150–60mm f/5–6.3 DG Contemporary, and 8mm F3.5 EX DG Fisheye. I am supremely happy with them (except for the lens foot on the 150-600mm. It's tiny, and doesn't work as a carry/lift handle at all).


cleaning - How do I protect my camera in a smoke filled environment?


I'm going to start a new project soon, "People in bars". I think it will be fun, and I think I'll capture a lot of interesting faces.


The thing is, bars are harsh environments for DSLRs. Obviously, there's protecting the camera from someone bumping into you, attempting to beat you with it, spilling a drink on it, and so on.


However, what will all of the smoke do to my lenses and sensor?



Normally, I would just use a discreet prime, but I don't think I'm going to be able to get the shots I want without making myself overly conspicuous. I'm considering my 18-105 or possibly 18-70mm, but those things suck in air (and smoke) as your adjust the focal length.


I'm guessing the same problem exists when shooting in some industrial settings. How do you protect your camera and lenses from excessive airborne pollutants?



Answer



At least higher-end DSLR bodies and lenses have dust seals around controls, so if you're using one of those and avoid changing lenses in lot of smoke you should be fine.


What is the point of Aperture priority and Shutter priority since they are just the inverse of each other?


I intentionally phrased the question title a bit provocatively. What I mean is this: Aperture priority mode (Av) means that I select an aperture, and the camera selects the corresponding shutter speed. Shutter priority mode (Tv) means that I select a shutter speed, and the camera selects the corresponding aperture. Right?


So, for a given static scene, by me selecting any given aperture in Av, the CPU sets a corresponding shutter speed. And by me selecting any given shutter speed in Tv, the CPU sets a corresponding aperture.


Can someone please explain to me how the two things are any different?


Indeed, when I try it out (I have two different EOS Cameras, both are 35mm film SLRs: EOS Rebel Ti and EOS 620), I get either exactly the same, or very similar, shutter speed / aperture value combinations, regardless of whether I'm in Av or Tv (for the same static scene on a tripod, with static light). I can even set Av and "pretend" I'm in Tv, and the other way 'round.


So why are there two different modes or what's the difference between them? And isn't Program Shift, too, essentially the same for all practical intents and purposes?



Answer



Correct. As a matter of fact, on most cameras Program Shift is the same too by your logic.


These modes, including Program, are designed to give you the same exposure which is why the results are the same since Aperture and Shutter-Speed are inversely related given a fixed ISO.


The difference is what you decide on. Only you can decide if you would like a photo to have a particular depth-of-field or freeze/blur certain motion. You could attempt and guess what shutter-speed will give you the aperture with the depth-of-field you want, but is it not easier to simply choose the aperture?



You may note this in the behavior of the camera. In Aperture-Priority, the camera displays the chosen aperture at all times and the shutter-speed appears when the camera meters, usually on the half-press of by pressing AE-L (Oddly marked by * on Canon).


Sunday, 15 September 2019

terminology - Are 2 megapixels enough for HD resolution pictures?


HD pictures has 1920x1080 = 2073600 pixels = 2025 kilopixel = 1.98 megapixel.



Does this mean that we can take HD pictures with a 2 MP camera? If not, why not?




Saturday, 14 September 2019

light - Why does the flash freeze a picture?


Why does a flash freeze a picture even if I use a shutter speed like 1/10 sec?


I don't understand it, because the light will hit the sensor the whole time, not just when the flash is fired.




Answer



The key here is how much light will be hitting sensor during flash, and how much during the rest of exposure. The sensor does gather light during the whole exposure; all of it is blended into one static image.


In case the ambient light is much lower, it won't have nearly as much effect on the total light that reaches the sensor, and therefore only surfaces lit by flash will stand out.


On the other hand, if the sensor gathers illumination provided by ambient light in similar or even higher amount than illumination caused by flash, it will show in the resulting image.


Combining areas lit by flash and areas lit by continuous light is most notably used for slow-sync technique. Example by Robin, 1/10 seconds:


A little spin


To capture ambient light in addition to flash, you'll need to change the ratio between them. You could reduce flash power and/or increase ambient light (stronger lighting or longer shutter time). Note that changes in aperture or ISO would affect both kinds of light similarly, i.e. they don't affect ratio.


Is there an IQ gain in going from Canon 18-135 IS to 18-135 STM lens?


Is there someone out there with any experience with the two lenses?




troubleshooting - Why won't my new Canon Rebel T3i take a picture with the 18-55mm lens in autofocus mode?


I just purchased a brand new Canon Rebel T3i kit from Costco.. I used it for a couple of days, but now when I have the 18-55mm lens attached and the camera on auto-focus, it will not take a picture. Still will take a picture in manual focus. And will take a picture in either focus with the other lens on (55-250mm).


I've been told by a friend that the lens may not be seating right. Are there any other settings I can check? I am very new to the camera and I probably messed with some settings or accidentally bumped something I shouldn't have.


Or I can take it back to Coscto and exchange it.




apple aperture - Is there a way to batch-edit metadata in the Mac OS Photos app?


I've starting using the Photos app built into Mac OS (El Capitan). I appreciate the great integration with iOS/iPhone and iCloud. However, I'm not seeing any features that will let me make significant changes to the metadata, except for Title, Description, Keyword, and Location.


Are there any built-in tools or third-party extensions for Photos that will allow me to edit other metadata?


If so, can I apply metadata changes to a group of photos in this app, i.e., to a batch?




canon - What is Nano USM and how does it compare to an STM or USM lens?


The Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM has a designation of Nano USM on the lens. What does this mean? What are the advantages of having it vs STM or USM?


We have a terminology thread that usually covers these questions but this is not yet addressed in it and I'm interested in the comparisons to the similar technology that Canon offers.




Friday, 13 September 2019

chdk - Is it possible to use a lower ISO instead of ND filters?


I've seen on the CHDK page, that you can change the ISO values, and put lower ones. Now let's suppose I want to shoot a waterfall in the daytime, and I also want a long exposure time (e.g., 10 seconds).



I know I can use ND filters, but what about using a very low ISO (like 15)? Is there a limit for the lowest ISO in each camera?


In theory, the light sensitivity would be very low, so the shutter time will need to be longer. Don't name aperrture sizes, because I can only have f/11 as my minimum.


If all of this is true, the best of all is the reduction of noise!



Answer



I don't really know much about CHDK, outside of that it lets you program P&S cameras. When it comes to ISO, though, the story is rather tricky. It may be possible to program ISO down to 15 with CHDK, but it may not really do you any good. There are "real" ISO settings, and there are "artificial" ISO settings. A real ISO setting would be something like ISO 100, which is usually the base ISO for many cameras (some have a base ISO of 200). This is an analog setting, adjusting the ISO to any of the "real" native settings will usually work by changing the analog readout of the sensor.


In contrast, an artificial ISO setting is either achieved by making other "behind the scenes" changes to other settings on the camera, or by "digitally enhancing" the nearest real ISO setting. In the case of "behind the scenes" ISO, rather than actually changing the ISO when choosing, say, ISO 50, the camera may actually reduce the exposure time at ISO 100 instead. In the case of "digitally enhancing" ISO, the camera may use ISO 100 when you choose ISO 50, then apply a digital filter to the resulting image to make it appear as though it was shot at ISO 50.


Generally speaking, using artificial ISO settings is undesirable. You generally don't really know what is going on behind the scenes, and if the camera is changing settings to make it appear as though you are really using ISO 50, it may adversely affect your image, preventing you from capturing the scene you really wanted to capture. Most of the time, it is best to use "real" ISO settings that change the analog readout from the sensor. If you need to lengthen your exposure times beyond what the native base ISO setting allows (usually ISO 100, sometimes ISO 200), then filtration is usually the best option.


Thursday, 12 September 2019

focal length - How do I calculate the distance of an object in a photo?


If I took a picture of a windmill on the horizon — given that I know the sensor size and the focal length of the lens and other factors to do with the shot — could I calculate how far away an object is from the photographer?



Answer



The only other factor you need is the height of the object in real life (otherwise you could be photographing a model which is much closer to the camera).


The maths isn't actually that complex, the ratio of the size of the object on the sensor and the size of the object in real life is the same as the ratio between the focal length and distance to the object.


To work out the size of the object on the sensor, work out it's height in pixels, divide by the image height in pixels and multiply by the physical height of the sensor.


So the whole sum is:



Distance to object equation


Let's sanity check this equation.


If we keep everything else constant and increase the focal length then the distance increases (as focal length is on the numerator). This is what you would expect, if you have to zoom your lens to make one object the size another equally sized object used to be, the first object must be further away.


If we keep everything else constant and increase the real height of the object then again the distance increases as if two objects of different real heights appear the same height in the image the taller one must be further away.


If we keep everything else constant and increase the image height, then the distance increases, as if two objects (of the same size, remember we're keeping everything else constant) appear the same pixel size in a cropped and uncropped image then the object in the uncropped image must be further away.


If we keep everything else constant and increase the object height in pixels then the distance decreases (we're on the denominator now): two equally sized objects, one takes up more pixels, it must be closer.


Finally if we keep everything else constant and increase sensor size, then distance decreases: two equally sized objects have the same height in pixels when shot with a compact (small sensor, where 20mm is a long lens) and shot with a DSLR (large sensor where 20mm is a wide lens), then the object in the DSLR image must be further away (because it appeared the same size but with a wide lens).


lightroom 3 - How to share a raw file including LR development settings


How do I send someone a .CR2 raw file with Lightroom adjustments applied?
In that way someone could open the raw file in their Lightroom and see what development settings I have used, apply other adjustments and send it back to me such that I can evaluate it and work further on it.




Answer



You can export to a DNG file which is not a CR2 file, but is a digital negative (RAW file). It isn't the original Canon format, but should contain most of the same information, if not all of it (it also has an option to embed the original). I believe that the DNG will have the Lightroom alterations applied to it. You can export it using Export and choosing DNG as the format.


hotshoe - Canon EOS 4000D Hot Shoe for Sync (with Studio Flashes)


The external Flash is not showing up in the configuration Menu when using Pixel TF-321 hot shoe. Is this the wrong adapter for that camera, as there is no X connection? I want to trigger a studio flash via sync connection. Can you recommend me a working hot shoe? Thanks!


enter image description here



enter image description here



Answer



There is a solution - Godox XPRO-C. 70 bucks and I'm able to use the sync! Works with 2000D and 4000D!


Wednesday, 11 September 2019

nikon - How can I turn off the loud sound my D3100 produces when I take a photograph?


Nikon D3100 produces sound when I take the photograph. The sound is loud and attention grabbing.



What is the term for this particular sound, and how can I turn it off?



Answer



Just use the Quiet Drive mode on your D3100. It is marked by a Q.


What you hear is the Mirror-Slap and cannot be removed completely unless you change to a mirrorless camera which are extremely quiet. The Nikon 1 J1 for example is ultra-quiet because it does not have a mechanical shutter either, which is the other noise the D3100 does.


To use the Quiet mode, press the shutter has you take the shot and it will do so more slowly than usual. Then, release it slowly, maybe a few seconds later when there is more ambient noise. This reduced the noise from the mirror since it moves slower.


terminology - How does a fly-by-wire focusing lens work?


I have learnt that fly-by-wire focusing is an electrical manual focusing system. But how does this focusing method work?




  • How do you manually focus with fly-by-wire?

  • What is the scope of this focusing method?

  • Which cameras have this feature?



Answer



Function: Normally the focus ring is mechanically connected to the inside of the lens so that when you turn the focus ring some of the lenses inside the lens move directly. With focus-by-wire the movement of the focus ring is measured electronically, and then a motor moves the lenses inside.


Drawbacks: As focussing is now only possible when the lens has power, it is impossible to focus, when the camera is switched off. And for macro work special extension tubes are needed, which have electrical coupling to allow for power and communication between the lens and camera. Also with macro reverse adaptors (and unpowered extension tubes) the only way to focus is by changing the distance between camera and subject.


Lenses which support focus-by-wire:



  • Most AF lenses for mirrorless cameras support focus-by-wire.


  • Nearly all Panasonic and and Olympus FourThirds and Micro-FourThirds AF lenses feature only focus-by-wire (with the exception of the M.Zuiko 12mm/2.0, which features additionally a true direct coupling between the focus ring and the lenses inside).

  • All Canon EOS-M lenses.

  • All Nikon 1 lenses.

  • All Sony E mount lenses.

  • All Fuji X mount lenses.

  • Most Samsung NX mount lenses.


Tuesday, 10 September 2019

photoshop - How do I correct white balance in JPEG images?


A friend of mine accidentally shot a load of photos with the white-balance on his camera set to "Tungsten". Is there an easy way to correct the resultant colour cast with Photoshop?



Answer



You can load jpegs into Adobe Camera Raw from bridge and have all the same options as processing a raw file. So you can choose the correct colour temperature and then convert several files with the same settings.


photoshop - Why does the histogram of an image depends on the software that opened it?


If I open a raw image in Photoshop and Paintshop pro their histograms and their look is different. However, if I open a Jpeg image in both Software, then their histogram and look is the same. What does cause it? I am not familiar with photography, but, as I understood, the raw images need some sort of algorithm to apply color to them. Is it the origin of difference? How can I then apply different algorithms in Painshop pro 2018? Below are some examples for an image taken from here:


enter image description here




Answer



It's all to do with the profile applied to the raw files and guesses other software makes as to what that profile ought to be...


RAW is not an 'absolute' format in terms of the image displayed, it's raw data to which an 'opinion' of what the image ought to look like can be manipulated from. It will already contain several view options added by the camera, based on the photographer's pre-determined settings, but these can be changed later, in software.


Adobe RAW in Photoshop will make a guess at what it thinks the Nikon default profile ought to be and what adjustments the photographer may have made to their settings, but frankly it usually makes a horrible mess of it, because it isn't the same as Nikon actually use, it's an attempt to reverse-engineer how Nikon does it. Photoshop interprets the profile as being Adobe RGB(1998).


By the look of it, Paintshop Pro has even less of a clue as to what it really ought to look like. I don't have Paintshop to be able to examine what its guess was.


The only app that can actually guess correctly is Nikon's own software suite, including ViewNX-i. ViewNX-i knows exactly what the camera's settings were, including that the photographer was using the Vivid enter image description here colour profile addition, for extra colour-punch...


enter image description here


To get that data into Photoshop or Paintshop correctly, the best way to do it is to export as a TIFF... then it will open looking something like it was intended, without having to make any guesses. The correct Profile is now showing as Nikon sRGB 4.0.0.3002 when imported to Photoshop.


On the other hand, the jpgs have been saved, imo [see below] directly from the camera, with the internet standard sRGB profile. This, allowing for variance in actual monitor calibration, is the closest you get to the artist's actual intent, without having Nikon software to interpret for you.


NEF interpreted by PhotoRAW



enter image description here


TIF after export from ViewNX-i with no adjustments


enter image description here


JPG, for comparison


enter image description here


As you can see, the TIF has more in common with the JPG, though the JPG is slightly darker in the greens.


I cant really post a picture of what the image actually looks like in ViewNX-i because the screen layout won't let me drop the size down and conveniently place the histogram over it like I can in Photoshop, but in fact the jpg is the closest of the three to what it looks like in ViewNX-i, so the camera has done a pretty decent job of conveying in a more 'portable' format [sRGB JPG] what the photographer's intent was according to his camera settings.


equipment recommendation - How can I attach a lens without a collar to a tripod?


I have a Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 push-pull and I wonder how to use it on a tripod. There is no collar.


What is the best solution to attach it to a tripod? ("Best" is rather vague, it should take into account the easiness to find the required materials for the most part as well as how bulky the solution is. Price is rather secondary in my case.) Are there any universal collars or would it be ok to only attach the camera body?


I am not looking for a head/tripod recommendation, I am looking for a way to link {camera + lens} to {tripod + head}.



Answer



You might want to consider a lens support device like the Manfrotto 293.


Manfrotto 293 (Lens Support)


This is my camera with a 300mm F4.5 prime on it. The device is currently in the shortest position so it could be extended to support longer lenses.


I use the device for when I do piggyback astrophotos.



Monday, 9 September 2019

Why is my subject still out of focus when it's inside the range shown by a depth of field calculator?


In a depth of field app, I entered my camera's sensor size, focal length of 50mm, aperture of f8, and focus distance of 6 feet. The app tells me that DoF is 2.1 feet, from 5.1 to 7.2 feet.


I then focused on my subject at a distance of 6 feet, and then moved the subject back so the distance was now 6.9 feet. But, to my surprise, it was no longer in focus.


The subject is well within the 5.1 to 7.2 foot range ie, what am I missing here?



Answer




Depth of field occurs on a plane. At 6 foot is where complete, "perfect" focus is achieved, and anything before or after that is not in complete focus and is, in fact, slightly out of focus. So, the range from 5.1 to 7.2 feet is the range of "acceptable focus." And, as you're seeing, it's somewhat subjective based upon image size. At 6.9 foot, your subject is at the edge of that "acceptable" range, and in your case is not acceptably focused.


competitions - What are some good online photo challenges?



A great way to learn and find ideas. Some of these also have mini-games such as post-processing challenges, which is a wonderful way to learn about the different creative ways you can post-process the same image, and what you like best. The smaller and tighter the community, the more likely you will get better and more in-depth critiques.



Reason to be cautious:




  • Beware of scams. (These are typically of the form "Congratulations, your photo has won a prize! We're publishing a very expensive book of the prizewinning photos, would you like to order a copy?". Of course, every entrant has won a prize...)




  • Watch out for the copyright clauses; by entering, you may be assigning all rights in your photo to whoever's running the competition.-




Free:



gizmodo.com/tag/shooting-challenge


dpchallenge.com


dpreview.com


Photo Friday


photocamel.com


photoforum.com


dailyshoot.com


fredmiranda.com


fujimugs.com


pentaxforums.com



dgrin.com


PhotographyBB


About Photography


the mindful eye


Small Aperture


reddit PictureChallenge


streetphotographynowproject


Great Photo Race


Other sources:


twitter.com/dailyshoot - an archive of a daily social game that went for 690 days.



Flickr groups


panachallenge.com - targeted mainly to Panasonic users.


Prizes:


Photography Competitions - Photo Contests - Photo Awards


Photo Compete



Answer



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